Chogi likes to climb the ladder when I am working.

Lots of waste on drywall, but it is recyclable. Each 4X8 drywall piece has slight indentions at the end sides so that you can apply the fiberglass tape and put mud over the tape without creating a rise. Even with sanding, if you don't line these indentions up, you will get a slight bump in the wall along the seam which is very visible if the light hits just right. That is why there is so much waste, because you don't want to line up pieces that don't have the corresponding indented portion.

The screw to the left onthe junction box allows you to extend or retract the outlet so as to get the correct depth--awesome invention.

Drywall (in the South they call it "sheetrock") tools of the trade. Easy to install but a very long, tedious process--a minimum of four coats of mud. Wait time is 24 hourse between each, sand, and then repeat. Very, very dusty. I have found that the "low dust" option does not cut down on dust much at all, so I just go with the regular which seems to set harder than the low dust option. Fiberglass tape to the left is to seal the seams; the tape to the right has metal in the middle, this is applied over where two walls meet at a corner. Lesson learned: it is best to put down dry wall mud first, then apply the corner tape, wet down the corner tape so that the paper of the tape lies flush agains the wall, then spread your mud over the tape. On the corners the mud is spread initially with the corner trowel in the photo, then the medium size trowel is used to feather it out, then the largest trowel is used to spread out even further. The small trowel is used to fill the screw dimples with mud.

6 mil plastic cover for the crawl space to cut down on moisture. The cover should overlap 12 inches at the seams, and taped. And go up a minimum of 6 inches on the side walls.