Monday, December 27, 2010
Saturday, December 25, 2010
Cut you new rope to the right size for your window. Ideally you want to use 100% cotton sash rope (nylon will stretch over time). Despite an exhaustive search I could not find any, so I settled for a cotton rope with a nylon core. Tie a knot at one end of the rope and put it in your window channel. Nail through both the knot, and about 3 inches above the knot, to help hold the rope in place in the channel of the window. Once the ropes are secure in the window, loop the other ends of your ropes through the window wheels at the top (see picture below).
You can insulate against drafts coming through your window wheels during the winter by using carpet padding, or something similar.
Fill in the opening at the bottom and top of your window with maximum expanding "Great Stuff" window foam to prevent drafts. (Later, once the window weights, with their new ropes, are in place I will insert 2 inch foam board in this channel--between the opening/channel pictured here and the window trim--for further insulation.)
Once both sides of your window have ropes in the channels, and you have sealed gaps in the window channel with "Great Stuff," loop the other end of the rope (the end not already nailed to your window) through the weight and tie a knot at the end--this knot will prevent the rope from slipping through your final two knots (see picture below).
Here you can see how the original end knot will prevent the rope from slipping through the final two knots.
Install the weight in the window channel. Use parafin (Gulf) wax, beeswax, or soap on the sides of your windows where they will rub against the window framing so to make it easier to open and close the windows.
Thursday, December 16, 2010
Once the old paint is taken off the windows with a heat gun you need painter's tape, a bucket of water, White Lightning glazing compound, metal window points, a scissors, and paper towel. The glazing compound is available at Ace and Benjamin Moore. I would stay away from the cheaper compounds, like DAP, that are available at the Home Centers. The great thing about White Lighthing is that it remains flexible, and will not crack, thus you can trim excess away, for a clean line, at antyime.
Take your painter's tape and seal off the part of the window where you don't want the glazing compound to go,and so as to achieve an even line of compound. Leave enough room between the tape and the wood for your metal point placements.
This is a photo for the metal points (you can buy them in the paint department at the Home Centers). Push them into the wood with a flat head screwdriver. Be careful not to press too hard down on the glass or you will break it. I have heard that instead of using these metal points, you can just put a narrow bead of compound in the space (below the glass and against the wood, not on the top part of the glass) here to hold the glass. I have not tried this, but it sounds like it would work. The next step is to squeeze the compound onto the top of the glass so as to hold in the window panes. Put your finger in the bucket of water and then spread the compound against the window glass and muntin to create a smooth seal. (The water facilitates the spreading of the compound and makes it easier to clean the compound off of your finger when you are finished spreading.)
Monday, August 30, 2010
Monday, July 26, 2010
Wednesday, July 21, 2010
This color was changing to pea green at night, it took me days to realize it was because of the energy efficient compact flourescent bulbs which give off a blue-green hue. With halgoen or incandescent,where the hue is warmer, the color is totally different--a color true to the acutal color.
Thursday, May 6, 2010
A layer of highest quality thin set mortar on the underside prevents pops and air bubbles, giving the floor a solid base on which to lay your tile.
Monday, April 12, 2010
Friday, March 26, 2010
Monday, March 15, 2010
My neighbor was intent on replacing all these windows below, like you see on the top photo. This side of his house dominated the view from my house. To try and prevent it, I offered to paint them for the cost of materials:
Monday, March 1, 2010
The bank applied the ugly red stain and plastic polyurethane to all the woodwork in the house (seen on the right). I believe that the removing it exposed the original finish of the wood (on the left). Originally, they would have likely used a high quality Danish Oil type stain that penetrates deeper into the wood, rather than the cheap stuff most people use today, thus, perhaps the original stain is not so much affected by the Soy Gel?
Friday, February 5, 2010
Drywall (in the South they call it "sheetrock") tools of the trade. Easy to install but a very long, tedious process--a minimum of four coats of mud. Wait time is 24 hourse between each, sand, and then repeat. Very, very dusty. I have found that the "low dust" option does not cut down on dust much at all, so I just go with the regular which seems to set harder than the low dust option. Fiberglass tape to the left is to seal the seams; the tape to the right has metal in the middle, this is applied over where two walls meet at a corner. Lesson learned: it is best to put down dry wall mud first, then apply the corner tape, wet down the corner tape so that the paper of the tape lies flush agains the wall, then spread your mud over the tape. On the corners the mud is spread initially with the corner trowel in the photo, then the medium size trowel is used to feather it out, then the largest trowel is used to spread out even further. The small trowel is used to fill the screw dimples with mud.